Like many of us, food writer Angelo Comsti‘s idea of Filipino cuisine was limited to adobo, sinigang, kaldereta, etc. But after traveling to 22 provinces, he challenged this definition. In his new cookbook “Also Filipino,” Angelo chronicles “75 regional recipes [he] never had growing up;” proving that Filipino food went beyond what our moms made us at home.
This recipe from his book is for kinalas, a noodle soup from the Bicol region. It’s like a cross between mami and bulalo (it also reminded us of nilaga), plus gravy. The dish started in Dayangdang in Naga City. Local tricycle drivers would prepare it before their shift starts. Then, at the end of the day, they’d fix up a bowl as a reward.
- 1 kg beef shank
- 1 medium onion, peeled and chopped
- 2 tbsp salt
- 1 tbsp whole black peppercorns
- water, as needed
- 500g egg noodles
- ½ cup all-purpose flour
- 1 tbsp soy sauce
- 1 tbsp fish sauce
- 1 cup beef broth
- salt and pepper, to taste
- hard-boiled eggs, peeled
- spring onions, chopped
- chicharon, crumbled
Boil beef: Place beef shank in a pot and pour enough water to cover. Bring water to a boil over high heat. Once boiling, reduce the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes. Drain.
Slow cook beef: In the same pot, return beef shank. Pour enough water to cover. Add onion, peppercorns, and salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce heat to low. Simmer until beef is tender, about 1 ½ hours.
Chop beef: Remove beef, reserving broth. Once cool enough to handle, chop beef into bite-sized pieces. Set aside.
Make the kinalas gravy: Add flour to a pan over medium heat. Cook, stirring frequently, until light brown. Remove flour from pan and set aside. In the same pan, add soy sauce, fish sauce, and reserved broth. Stir until combined. Once liquid is simmering, add flour and cook, stirring frequently, until thickened. Season with salt and pepper.
Assemble the dish: Bring pot with reserved broth to a boil. Cook egg noodles in the broth according to package directions. Divide noodles and chopped beef shank between 4 bowls. Pour 3 tablespoons of the gravy into each bowl, then top with reserved broth. Garnish with hard boiled egg, spring onions, and chicharon. Serve hot.